In 1974, Montana did something that stunned anglers across the state and the nation: it stopped stocking trout in streams and rivers that supported wild trout populations. After decades of use and millions of dollars invested, hatchery production was not helping, and in fact was the leading cause of the collapse of the fishery. Ground-breaking research on the Madison River in the late 1960s and early '70s organized by fisheries biologist Richard Vincent led to that decision. His study results showed that as hatchery production increased, trout abundance decreased, and native stocks were displaced.
Nearly forty years after Richard Vincent's study, Montana is one of America's premier trout fishing destinations. Focusing on habitat and discontinuing river hatchery stocking, trout fisheries have recovered and wild populations are self-sustaining.
It takes courage to buck popular opinion... Anyone at NH Fish & Game listening?
Monday, July 11, 2016
Monday, June 20, 2016
The Search for the Most Functional Alder (Zebra Caddis) Dry Fly...
For the past week or so I've been trying to develop the ideal Zebra Caddis (locally known as the Alder) dry fly.
Since noticing the Alder hatch this year on the Androscoggin River on 6/14 I've fished it 4 of the 6 days that have passed and have done well landing somewhere near 200 trout (all but 2 released unharmed thanks to mashed barbs), using different Alder iterations in search of a better Alder dry fly. ...and I think I might have it.
There are two types of conditions that I typically fish an Alder dry during the 2+ week long hatch: calmish water where the surface is moving, but nearly smooth, and fast water where it's difficult to see your fly and when it's being taken. A fly that's performs admirably in the slower water doesn't necessarily cut the mustard when it comes to faster water...
Regular Elk or Deer Hair Caddis in sizes #12 and #14 work reasonably well and drew a good number of strikes with a peacock body. A brown body seemed to outperform the peacock, and given the natural is brown that makes sense (but hey, you've gotta try peacock - that stuff is magic). With all these dry flies I've fished the same dropper fly - a generic caddis emerger pattern 1 or 2 sizes smaller than the dry. Using these traditional Deer Hair Caddis flies about 1/3 of the fish were taken on the dropper.
A bit more effective still was the regular #12 & 14 Stimulators in orange and brown - it seemed like a coin flip as to which color drew more action. I've found that flies tied on the typical Stimulator hook - the longer, naturally curved Tiemco 200r style - seem to match the body shape of the adult Alder better than traditional dry fly hooks, so that's what I've focussed on using in later flies. While fishing the Stimulator with dropper about 1/4 of the fish were taken on the dropper. While obviously a tiny sample size, to me this means that the more fish that pass up the emerger on the way to the dry, to take the dry, the better.
So, after the Stimulators I tried a Deer Hair Caddis tied on the 200r style hook, which results in a bit longer body, with tweaks of a bit longer deer hair wing and more densely/tightly wrapped body hackle, in an effort to get better buoyancy in some of the faster water trout are often found. This extra hackle also makes the fly ride a bit higher where it's a bit easier to "skitter" on the surface - which, let's face it, is a whole lot of fun coaxing acrobatics out of trout that seem to go nuts for these alders that bounce along the water. If I gave the fly a good dip in silicone floatant it was good for quite some time before needing to be redipped - I'm guessing maybe 75 or so drifts/casts in the quicker water - somewhat less in the slow water. So, now we were on to something - less maintenance on the fly and what seemed to be a higher number of strikes per cast, with a significantly higher percentage of fish taken on the dry vs. the emerger dropper 18" behind the dry - only about 1/5 fish took the dropper over this new version of Deer Hair Caddis.
The photo below shows the Deer Hair Caddis improvements, in the 4 body colors that I tied them in for experiment - peacock, orange, tan and brown.
I added a second craft foam wing, of a lighter beige color. This provides more buoyancy and the 2nd layer of foam acts as a sort of sighter, make it significantly easier to see in faster water. This is what I consider my best Alder imitation yet. It needs no floatant, ever.
This will be my go to Alder dry for the foreseeable future... until I toy with it some more by maybe adding a fine gold tinsel or extra fine gold wire spiral ribbed over the underbody... Will good enough ever be good enough? I sure hope not. ;)
Recipe:
Hook: #14 200r style natural bend.
Thread: 8/0 Uni brown or black.
Underbody: superfine dry fly dubbing in rusty or dark brown.
Bottom wing: Dark brown 2mm craft foam cut as wide as the hook gap, extending just past the hook bend.
Middle wing: Beige 2mm craft foam, same size as the first wing.
Top wing: Deer body hair extending just past the foam wings.
Front hackle: brown or dark barred ginger hackle extending a bit beyond the hook gap.
I finish it with 2 three turn whip finishes and a dab of head cement.
Of course, your mileage may vary - but it works for me. Good luck fishing. :)
...P.S, trout aren't the only fish that can't resist a well tied Alder dry during the hatch.
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| Alders hatching usually means lots of good dry fly action. |
Since noticing the Alder hatch this year on the Androscoggin River on 6/14 I've fished it 4 of the 6 days that have passed and have done well landing somewhere near 200 trout (all but 2 released unharmed thanks to mashed barbs), using different Alder iterations in search of a better Alder dry fly. ...and I think I might have it.
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| The Alder natural on my finger next to a Deer Hair Caddis in the Rainbow's mouth. |
Regular Elk or Deer Hair Caddis in sizes #12 and #14 work reasonably well and drew a good number of strikes with a peacock body. A brown body seemed to outperform the peacock, and given the natural is brown that makes sense (but hey, you've gotta try peacock - that stuff is magic). With all these dry flies I've fished the same dropper fly - a generic caddis emerger pattern 1 or 2 sizes smaller than the dry. Using these traditional Deer Hair Caddis flies about 1/3 of the fish were taken on the dropper.
A bit more effective still was the regular #12 & 14 Stimulators in orange and brown - it seemed like a coin flip as to which color drew more action. I've found that flies tied on the typical Stimulator hook - the longer, naturally curved Tiemco 200r style - seem to match the body shape of the adult Alder better than traditional dry fly hooks, so that's what I've focussed on using in later flies. While fishing the Stimulator with dropper about 1/4 of the fish were taken on the dropper. While obviously a tiny sample size, to me this means that the more fish that pass up the emerger on the way to the dry, to take the dry, the better.
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| #14 Stimulator |
So, after the Stimulators I tried a Deer Hair Caddis tied on the 200r style hook, which results in a bit longer body, with tweaks of a bit longer deer hair wing and more densely/tightly wrapped body hackle, in an effort to get better buoyancy in some of the faster water trout are often found. This extra hackle also makes the fly ride a bit higher where it's a bit easier to "skitter" on the surface - which, let's face it, is a whole lot of fun coaxing acrobatics out of trout that seem to go nuts for these alders that bounce along the water. If I gave the fly a good dip in silicone floatant it was good for quite some time before needing to be redipped - I'm guessing maybe 75 or so drifts/casts in the quicker water - somewhat less in the slow water. So, now we were on to something - less maintenance on the fly and what seemed to be a higher number of strikes per cast, with a significantly higher percentage of fish taken on the dry vs. the emerger dropper 18" behind the dry - only about 1/5 fish took the dropper over this new version of Deer Hair Caddis.
The photo below shows the Deer Hair Caddis improvements, in the 4 body colors that I tied them in for experiment - peacock, orange, tan and brown.
Of these colors the brown color seemed best, followed next by the peacock, and pulling up the rear was tan and orange.
About half of all the trout were caught on my newly built 6' 2wt fiberglass rod. Tons of fun. :)
So that brings us to the next version of Alder dry. The strict traditionalists among us - you know, the silk line, bamboo rod type - will likely scoff at this, but here it is... :) I substituted 2mm brown craft foam for the hackled body of the more traditional Deer Hair Caddis and tied it on the same #14 200r hook. A substantial improvement to fishability on the river. Photo below.
The results of this modification were applying silicone once, at the beginning of fishing, and not needing floatant again for hours. Occasionally the fly would get nasty slimy and I'd just swish it around in the water, then shake it good, blow the remaining water off and we were back in business. Fish took this version what seemed like equally well as the previous version, with the added benefit of less maintenance and a bit more buoyancy. Still though, the fly was a bit difficult to see at times, being mostly all darkish brown, especially in some of the faster water. That needed improvement. And here it is...
I added a second craft foam wing, of a lighter beige color. This provides more buoyancy and the 2nd layer of foam acts as a sort of sighter, make it significantly easier to see in faster water. This is what I consider my best Alder imitation yet. It needs no floatant, ever.
This will be my go to Alder dry for the foreseeable future... until I toy with it some more by maybe adding a fine gold tinsel or extra fine gold wire spiral ribbed over the underbody... Will good enough ever be good enough? I sure hope not. ;)
Recipe:
Hook: #14 200r style natural bend.
Thread: 8/0 Uni brown or black.
Underbody: superfine dry fly dubbing in rusty or dark brown.
Bottom wing: Dark brown 2mm craft foam cut as wide as the hook gap, extending just past the hook bend.
Middle wing: Beige 2mm craft foam, same size as the first wing.
Top wing: Deer body hair extending just past the foam wings.
Front hackle: brown or dark barred ginger hackle extending a bit beyond the hook gap.
I finish it with 2 three turn whip finishes and a dab of head cement.
Of course, your mileage may vary - but it works for me. Good luck fishing. :)
...P.S, trout aren't the only fish that can't resist a well tied Alder dry during the hatch.
Monday, June 6, 2016
The Journey into Rod Building begins...
In May 2016 I decided I'd learn how to build custom fishing rods - mostly fly rods, since that what I fish almost exclusively. I found a great deal on a used rod wrapping device that came with two different speed motors for coating, then drying the finished rod.
My first project was to convert an existing Fenwick 6 wt 8' 2 piece fly rod that I'd found into a spinning rod. It was in pretty rough shape, being out in the elements for quite some time, but after some cleanup the blank looked pretty good still.
I grew up fishing with my grandfather and his favorite rod was a converted fly rod that I happened to break the tip on in a car door incident many years ago. So it seemed fitting that I should own a very limber spinning rod. I can remember many hundreds of hours smallmouth bass fishing with him with these limber sort of rods. We used 4 pound test and a #8 mustad hook. We'd hook a night crawler once through just the head and put a small split shot about a foot up from the hook. We'd drift fish many ponds all over the state with these outfits, and having a 3 or 4 pound smallmouth pull you around the lake on these light rods was tons of fun. Gramp has since passed, but I still enjoy fishing this way from time to time.
So, I began by doing online searches about how to build fishing rods and stumbled across a very informative website www.rodbuildingforum.com. The folks there walked me through the process. I carefully stripped off the old fly guides and got the handle removed. That was quite a laborious task, but I got it done without damaging the blank. The next step was to install the new cork tennessee style handle and the fancy, modern airwave guides that supposedly make a huge difference with spin casting. Then I had to Flexcoat epoxy the thread wraps holding the guides. I think it turned out great. Here are a couple of photos of the progress:
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| Rod wrapping machine with 2 motors. |
I grew up fishing with my grandfather and his favorite rod was a converted fly rod that I happened to break the tip on in a car door incident many years ago. So it seemed fitting that I should own a very limber spinning rod. I can remember many hundreds of hours smallmouth bass fishing with him with these limber sort of rods. We used 4 pound test and a #8 mustad hook. We'd hook a night crawler once through just the head and put a small split shot about a foot up from the hook. We'd drift fish many ponds all over the state with these outfits, and having a 3 or 4 pound smallmouth pull you around the lake on these light rods was tons of fun. Gramp has since passed, but I still enjoy fishing this way from time to time.
So, I began by doing online searches about how to build fishing rods and stumbled across a very informative website www.rodbuildingforum.com. The folks there walked me through the process. I carefully stripped off the old fly guides and got the handle removed. That was quite a laborious task, but I got it done without damaging the blank. The next step was to install the new cork tennessee style handle and the fancy, modern airwave guides that supposedly make a huge difference with spin casting. Then I had to Flexcoat epoxy the thread wraps holding the guides. I think it turned out great. Here are a couple of photos of the progress:
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| Decorative wraps made over the rough area of the blank where the original handle extended past where the new spinning handle ends. |
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| The finished decorative wrap. Not bad for a newbie. :) |
The next project was a small stream fly rod. I decided on a 6', 2 piece, 2 weight fiberglass blank for this project. Here are a few photos of the progress.
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| A brook trout decal and custom gold handwriting seemed fitting. |
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| With guides and ferrule all wrapped it's time to trip then epoxy. |
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| Also added 2 gold fish marks for quick measuring of fish on the stream - one at 12" and the other at 15" |
Again the project came out what I considered to be excellent. Very pleased. Since building this rod it has caught well over 100 trout. :) The largest of which were brook trout a tad over 13" and pushing 1.5 pounds. They felt like tarpon, and even the small 6 or 7 inch fish are fun on this little rod. :)
Feeling somewhat invincible and now being somewhat addicted to building quality fishing rods I ordered a handful of fly blanks to work on over the coming months. More on rod building to follow. :)
Thursday, June 2, 2016
May 2016 Fly Fishing
May 2016 Fly Fishing
An early May brookie that fell for my snowshoe hare wing caddis emerger. He was in good company - the fine wire ribbed dry flies lasted on average of 30 fish each before being destroyed... and I went through lots of them. :)
I rarely keep trout to eat, but early in the season I like to have a couple of fresh meals, and get a few meals worth in the freezer. This May day I was fishing a local trout pond and fished for 6+ hours, with steady action nearly all day. I must have caught and released more than a hundred fish, and put the ones I couldn't release unharmed onto the stringer. The last fish of the day was that big boy in front. He put me at the 5 pound limit. For size comparison those other trout are all roughly the same size and about 9" long. I didn't put a tape measure to the big fella, but he was a hog. :)
Below are the flies that did most of the work that day. The larger one to the right was my version of a #14 caddis emerger with the brown translucent trailing shuck and snowshoe hare wing (there was a good hatch of similar looking caddis) and the #20 pheasant tail dropper, which looks like a ton of the small mayfly nymphs. Not sure how many trout I've caught on tiny pheasant tails over the years, but it's A LOT. :)
Another freezer filling bunch of fat 14-16" brookies.
A smallmouth that took my soft hackle streamer below a dam on the Merrymeeting River flowing out of Lake Winnipesaukee in mid May.
While the Hendricksons were coming off in early May this is the duo that accounted for quite a few big brook trout. Did better with the 2 nymphs than the Red Quill dry and Hendrickson dropper, even when fish were rising, for some reason. Go figure.
Another freezer filling limit of big brook trout. Delicious. :) The freezer is full, and unless a trout is injured beyond likely recovery they'll all be going back for the rest of the year.
I've got a gopro camera mounted on my net that takes photos periodically when I remember to press the button. Below are some of those photos from May...
Saturday, April 30, 2016
April 2016 Fly Fishing
April 2016 was slim pickings for trout fishing around these parts. Partly because the water is still very cold, but mostly because the stock trucks haven't made their rounds yet. :)
I fished for 4 hours to catch something this cold, windy day near the end of April at a trout pond up in Errol. This little guy took the #20 buggy-looking dropper fly that I had behind the #12 damsel larva main fly.
Another day near the end of April I dragged this guide's choice hare's ear and dropper for 3 hours, along with numerous other flies, and came up empty. Possibly it was because the water was still quite cold, but likely it was because the stock trucks hadn't made their rounds yet. ;)
I fished for 4 hours to catch something this cold, windy day near the end of April at a trout pond up in Errol. This little guy took the #20 buggy-looking dropper fly that I had behind the #12 damsel larva main fly.
Occasionally our family dog tags along on a fishing expedition.
This first pond trout of the year took the dropper fly behind my beadhead wooly bugger - it was a #18 peacock and black wooly bugger. I do well with very small buggers, particularly in spring with holdover and native fish. I think they take them for damsel fly larva, small bait fish and all kinds of other food they typically eat.
Here's the bugger combo. The #10 bugger looks like a giant compared to the typically more productive #18 dropper bugger. Though I usually like the hackle on my buggers longer than standard to provide a bit more movement in the water, the bigger bugger in this photo sports unusually long hackle... might have been the result of a bit too much cold beer at the tying bench. ;)
In late April bugs FINALLY began to hatch above surface. This one was a Hendrickson, one of the earliest mayflies. There was a pretty good hatch, but nothing was rising to them. Possibly because the water was still cold, but mostly it was because the stock trucks hadn't made their rounds yet. :)
Friday, April 1, 2016
My Fly Tying Journey Begins :: January 2016
After many years of buying flies for fishing I decided to learn how to tie my own in January 2016.
I attempted to take a tying class, to get started properly, but after my initial inquiry, and being told I'd hear back, weeks went by and I heard nothing more from the instructor. So, I taught myself by watching online videos generously shared by knowledgeable tyers.
1) The most influential has been Tim Flagler of Tight Line Productions. https://www.youtube.com/user/tightlinevideo
He and Matt Grobert of http://www.caddischronicles.com/ both tie for the Tight Line Productions videos. They're very clever in the way they make you a better tyer by subtly sneaking lots of best practices into their high quality tying videos. I've picked up countless tricks and procedures to make things easier and the flies better.
2) Jim Misiura. Jim's massive series of "Fly tying for beginners" videos has been very valuable as I try to expand the number of arrows in my ever-growing fly tying quiver. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChBe08TywiYfR5M_3P2dBig
3) Davie McPhail. Davie has a very natural seeming ability to tie beautiful flies, and explains things as he goes in a very pleasant manner. He has single handedly enabled me to figure out how to properly tie in classic wet fly wings. https://www.youtube.com/user/DavieMcPhail
4) Tim at Trout and Feather. Tim's instructional video are numerous and he does a particularly good job of explaining why he's doing certain things in the tying process, as well as his thought process on modifying flies for various situations. http://www.troutandfeather.com/fly-tying-videos/
5) Rounding out the most influential 5 is Hans Weilenmann. I have very much benefitted from Hans' minimalist approach to tying. No thread wrap is wasted and everything is very tidy.
https://www.youtube.com/user/HansWeilenmann
There have been others, but these five have been my primary educators in fly tying. Thank you gentlemen. :)
Since beginning fly tying a mere half year ago I've tied well over 2,000 flies, and I've sold nearly 100 dozen of some of my favorite nymphs, dries, streamers and wooly buggers in online auctions. Viewable here: http://www.ebay.com/sch/milleroutdoors1/m.html
The real fun in tying flies is developing your own patterns and tweaking popular patterns to work better. I plan on publishing a few of my creations in the not-too-distant future in an effort to give a bit back and pay the knowledge sharing, that I've so benefited from, forward. So stay tuned. :)
A few of the flies I've tied...
I attempted to take a tying class, to get started properly, but after my initial inquiry, and being told I'd hear back, weeks went by and I heard nothing more from the instructor. So, I taught myself by watching online videos generously shared by knowledgeable tyers.
1) The most influential has been Tim Flagler of Tight Line Productions. https://www.youtube.com/user/tightlinevideo
He and Matt Grobert of http://www.caddischronicles.com/ both tie for the Tight Line Productions videos. They're very clever in the way they make you a better tyer by subtly sneaking lots of best practices into their high quality tying videos. I've picked up countless tricks and procedures to make things easier and the flies better.
2) Jim Misiura. Jim's massive series of "Fly tying for beginners" videos has been very valuable as I try to expand the number of arrows in my ever-growing fly tying quiver. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChBe08TywiYfR5M_3P2dBig
3) Davie McPhail. Davie has a very natural seeming ability to tie beautiful flies, and explains things as he goes in a very pleasant manner. He has single handedly enabled me to figure out how to properly tie in classic wet fly wings. https://www.youtube.com/user/DavieMcPhail
4) Tim at Trout and Feather. Tim's instructional video are numerous and he does a particularly good job of explaining why he's doing certain things in the tying process, as well as his thought process on modifying flies for various situations. http://www.troutandfeather.com/fly-tying-videos/
5) Rounding out the most influential 5 is Hans Weilenmann. I have very much benefitted from Hans' minimalist approach to tying. No thread wrap is wasted and everything is very tidy.
https://www.youtube.com/user/HansWeilenmann
There have been others, but these five have been my primary educators in fly tying. Thank you gentlemen. :)
Since beginning fly tying a mere half year ago I've tied well over 2,000 flies, and I've sold nearly 100 dozen of some of my favorite nymphs, dries, streamers and wooly buggers in online auctions. Viewable here: http://www.ebay.com/sch/milleroutdoors1/m.html
The real fun in tying flies is developing your own patterns and tweaking popular patterns to work better. I plan on publishing a few of my creations in the not-too-distant future in an effort to give a bit back and pay the knowledge sharing, that I've so benefited from, forward. So stay tuned. :)
A few of the flies I've tied...
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| Alder Wet |
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| Frenchie Nymphs |
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| Beadhead Isonychia |
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| Skakey Beeley |
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| Shakey Beeley Isonychia |
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| Stayner Ducktail |
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| Bluegill Fly |
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| Bluegill Fly #2 |
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| Beadhead Soft Hackle Streamer of my own creation, utilizing Ruffed Grouse marabou. |
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| The non beadhead version of my Ruffed Grouse soft hackle streamer. |
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| Infamous San Juan Worm - a worm AND and egg in 1 fly - what's not to like? ;) |
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| Green Weenie |
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| A crawfish pattern of my own creation called the Loco Craw |
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| Black Ghost Streamer, weighted |
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| Higa's S.O.S. |
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| Beadhead Wooly Bugger of my own creation |
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| An order of Black Ghost streamers waiting for head cement to dry |
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| Beadhead Green Weenie |
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| A Smelt imitation Wooly Bugger of my own creation |
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| A Beadhead Wooly Bugger of my own creation. |
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| An order of #10 Black Ghost Streamers ready to go out |
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| Hornbergs |
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| An assortment of various #18 and 20 midges. |
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| Simple Snowshoe Emerger tied with pheasant tail tail and body with Snowshoe Hare wing. |
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| Beadhead Guide's Choice Hare's Ear |
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| Hot Belly Pheasant Tails |
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